Lumusa

Lumusa is in the Western Highlands Province in PNG.  Once again this is a bit of a "who you know" destination.  There is not a guesthouse to be found.  But for me I had a few places to stay.  You see this is one of the places I lived as a kid and the home of one of my greatest friends, Heather.

I ventured to Lumusa with my brothers, Steve and Pete and my nephew, Harvey.  We hadn't been back there in about 30 years.

I was hoping that we could stay in a house made of bush materials but the pastor wanted us to stay with him in his house (an ex-mission house).  So we didn't really have a choice of where to stay.  Harvey was also a little disappointed not to stay in the bush material house.

When we went to Lumusa the road wasn't open and we had to walk most of the way from Dalapana in the pouring rain.  We had always planned to walk back.  So two long walks for a little boy.  Harvey was a trooper!  The bigger boys had to work hard though.

If you have a friend that can take you to their village it is a wonderful experience and walking there is definitely the way to go.

The Baptist Union has a few projects in this area, including schools and coffee growing.

Sepik

Queen's Birthday long weekend Birgit and I headed to Wewak to take a trip up the Sepik river.  We stayed with, Christina, who is a volunteer working at the Teacher's College who was very hospitable.  I was disappointed that the weather wasn't hotter although Birgit may have appreciated that.

There are a few places to stay in Wewak but crashing with a "wantok" is always better.

Joseph (mobile +675 7121 4829) was our guide for our adventure.  He picked us up from the airport, dropped us off at Christina's and told us he would pick us up at some unearthly hour in the morning.  True to his word he arrived on time...not PNG time.  He brought along a female relative because we were just two white girls and he wanted us to feel comfortable.  Most impressive.  The beetle nut chewing was not so impressive but he was not driving so I could bear it.

Gilbert was our driver and he was a safe driver.  We had a pleasant drive (quite a few hours) up the to the river.  Joseph brought us some sandwiches and water.  The sandwiches were perhaps a little dodgy but we had brought some of our own food and bought some fruit along the way.

When we arrived at the Sepik river we transferred into a canoe. Although it was a hot day it felt cool as we sped across the water.  Definitely glad I had a long sleeve shirt and plenty of sunscreen.

The river was beautiful and Joseph told us about some environmental issues and culture as we travelled.

Our accommodation for the evening was basic but comfortable.  We took a wash in the river.  Not sure if we were brilliantly clean but we were refreshed.  There was a wooden box "toilet" but it was a little off putting to see that our waste was going into the water below us.  It didn't seem to directly join with the river...I told myself that anyway!  We had a mattress on the floor and mosquito nets to protect us. Also glad for the Bushman's mosquito repellent.

On the way up Joseph asked what we would like to eat, "tin fish, fresh fish or puk puk (crocodile)".  There was no debate.  We both agreed that while on the Sepik, puk puk was a must.  It was a great choice too.  The puk puk stew was delicious!

After a visiting some Haus Tambarans (Spirit Houses) we returned the way we came.  It was a rushed visit but really worthwhile!

For dinner we enjoyed the fresh fish we bough from the lady on the river for 50t each.  Yum.

Rondon Ridge

Rondon Ridge is just out of Mt Hagen.  It is run by Trans Niugini Tours.  The views from the ridge are amazing.  The chef is pretty good too!

I have been there for coffee, lunch and for a weekend (one night).

Getting there can be a bit of a challenge (a great deal of work has been done in 2014 and it is good).  I have walked there and it takes a few hours to walk up there but great for your glutes and hamstrings.  If you drive, you need a 4WD .  This is the main reason I don't visit here more often. (Not any more, the road is good and a 2WD should be ok if road is dry.)

Birgit, Melina and I went to celebrate Melina's birthday.  The room was beautiful and each bed had a small hand carved wooden pig on it.  We were the only ones staying there.  In the afternoon we took a short walk around through the bush.  Then at night we enjoyed sitting on the porch taking in the lights of Mt Hagen while having a sing along.

You need to ring at least the day before and let them know you are coming up for a meal and obviously if you want to stay.  This gives them time to make sure they have food and to open the gate.

Mt Hagen Show

Of course living in Mt Hagen you can't avoid the Hagen Show.  Playing 'spot the tourist' is far too easy.   I choked at the K300 (about AU$150) for the pass to the "centre".  I figured that a had seen good "bilas" (traditional dress) at events such as election campaign meetings for free and wasn't going to pay that price to see an act rather than 'Singsing' for a real occasion.

So I opted for the K4 gate pass.  OK I had to look through the wire fence while the "centre pass" people go to be ON the football oval with the performers.  However, I was satisfied with my K4 ticket.

A man did try and get my friends and I to go around and pay a lot more for a centre pass but I resisted.  Another man came and asked me how much I paid for my ticket.  I replied that I had already purchased my ticket at the gate.  I insisted and I held him at bay.  Fortunately, I knew the man working on the gate.  I also strongly told this man I didn't need to enter into any further conversation with him because he was not an official (I had noticed that officials were wearing shirts labelled "Official 2012 Mt Hagen Show" on the pocket).  He then turned around so I could read the back of his shirt....oops it read "Official 2012 Mt Hagen Show".  Humble pie for lunch but I still told him to go and talk to the guy on the gate.  I never saw him again.

2013, once again I bought a K4 gate pass and this year no dramas :-)  I must say the 'Singsing' at the Prime Minister's visit was pretty similar to Mt Hagen Show with no fences or fees.

If you are coming here to see the show it may be worth the K300 but if you are spending considerable time in PNG - find a real 'Singsing' to visit.

In 2014, we paid a "local" fee to slip into the centre and there were many more cultural groups this year and it was great to be in amongst it.

Kompiam

I took a short plane fight on MAF to Kompiam to visit Dr Dave and his family upon their invitation.  Dr Dave overseas the work at Kompiam Hospital where you can volunteer . There is one regular flight a week, on Monday.  So I flew out the first Monday of school holidays and returned the second Monday. Check with MAF for flights as they do change.

I had a relaxing week where I got to paddle in the freezing cold river and hike a mountain with the Dukes, a volunteer couple.  They also allowed me to sleep at their house and cooked a yummy meal.  As far as I know there isn't a guesthouse at Kompiam.  So travel to Kompiam is definitely on a 'who you know' basis.

2014 update: There is a new guesthouse next to hospital.

First Hike - Kuta

Destination: Mt Kuta
Closest town: Mt Hagen
Accommodation:Nil
Cost: Nil
Difficulty: Fairly easy, some fitness required.

After moving to Mt Hagen to be Principal of Highlands Christian Grammar.  I was keen to do some mountain climbing.  My first hike in PNG was up Kuta and over to a coffee plantation, Korgua, owned by one of the parents from school, Bryan Leahy.  His Dad is famous in the Highlands as a pioneer in the area. Bryan gave us a few history lessons along the way.  Most interesting.  Check out coffee from Bryan's plantations. Swing coffee, Soltura Coffee, FiddleHeads Coffee.

It was a clear day with some good views.

I've done variations of this hike since. Up the mountain and down again.  Up and down the back way past Holy Trinity Teacher's College.  Even attempted to run up, ONCE.